Please review Travel Trailer system wiring diagram

Please review Travel Trailer system wiring diagram

I am a new comer to this forum and a new comer to travel trailers. We recently bought a brand new camplite 21rbs where i am in the act of installing twin batteries, Inverter and Midnite KID solar with 4x100W flex panels. I’ve connected a system/wiring diagram associated with the thing I’m presently setting up and will also be powering up within the day that is next 2.I would appreciate any feedback in the design to make sure an effective and SECURE system before We switch on!

Here’s a hyperlink towards the diagram.

Responses

Many thanks for remarks.

Correct the 2000W inverter is big and is sized for operating microwave oven OR expresso device for some mins each.Yes, how big the inverter may draw way too much whenever doing sitting idle and it is built to turn on/off effortlessly, Many Many Thanks!

All breakers and cables sizes are to spec. This is true of energy center, inverter and solar. Wire lengths are brief runs in every instances.i.e. all 1/0 cable good lengths add as much as 0 В· Share on Twitter

1.2KW down grid system; 2 strings of 2ea 305W 60 mobile panels on a redneck ground mount; MNPV3 combiner feeds a MN Timeless 150 located 100′ away; 12V 460AH FLA battery pack bank abilities a cabin-wide 12V DC system in addition to a Cotek 700W PSW inverter; Honda EU2000i and IOTA 55A charger bridge cloudy times and a Champion 3800W generator for brief timeframe, energy hungry devices.

Hi Mike,Thanks, you nailed my primary problem.

The Midnite Solar KID features a DC GFP that We have maybe maybe not shown because I’m nevertheless looking to get some definitive responses about how exactly to hookup battery pack negative (framework connect or otherwise not) and ground (framework connect or otherwise not). The factory setup had a battery that is single attached to the framework nothing else. The ability center had all DC negative leads linked to a typical coach club that had been attached to the framework along with AC ground. AC basic and ground aren’t fused (by code only bond and that is done at coast power panel). Therefore my question is do I disconnect battery pack negative from frame and then leave grounds to framework? Or float ground or something different? I’ll be setting up the GFP today that connects between battery pack negative and ground and basically disconnects the PV+ during fault. As shown now it will trip while you state.

Right now I’m tilting towards disconnecting trailer framework from battery pack negative.

1.2KW down grid system; 2 strings of 2ea 305W 60 cellular panels on a redneck ground mount; MNPV3 combiner feeds a MN Timeless 150 located 100′ away; 12V 460AH FLA battery pack bank capabilities a cabin-wide 12V DC system along with a Cotek 700W PSW inverter; Honda EU2000i and IOTA 55A charger bridge cloudy times and a Champion 3800W generator for brief timeframe, energy hungry devices.

Essentially all grounds get to frame. Which includes AC ground from coast and all sorts of framework grounds of elements. Battery negative normally attached to framework. We included the DC-GPF from Midnite Solar within the last diagram (see express link). I system tested today and each thing worked fine. mail order bride Wire length arrived up in several reviews i had off their sources. Observe that the trip that is”round duration of the 1/0 cable is not as much as 8 legs. from battery pack terminals to inverter and right right back.

One correction that is minor would make would be to your battery pack bank grounding into the framework ground. I recommend from the negative battery post to the common negative bus on the other side of the shunt that you move it.

With automobile loads, many make use of the framework once the return for power (DC illumination, automotive radio, and such). For which you have actually the framework to battery pack ground now will “miss” any loads that happen to get back present through their framework ground connection(s).

Battery pack bank is tiny for the 2,000 Watt @ 12 VDC inverter. Nominally, I would personally be suggesting a 500 Watt optimum AC that is continuous load. (2,000 watts * 1/0.85 AC inverter eff * 1/10.5 volt battery cutoff=) 224 Amp nominal flow that is current maximum AC inverter score.

1/0 cable is NEC ranked for

125 to 170 amps (in conduit)—And I would be suggesting a 1.25 Wiring+Breaker derating (224 amps * 1.25 derating= if you were going to really run the inverter near 2,000 watts for longer periods of times (more than a few minutes),)

280 Amp minimum rated Branch Circuit DC current.

If you utilize the less conservative Marine Wiring standards, 1/0 is perfect for well over 285 Amps

That you do not show breakers/fuses for many of this wiring making the bus that is positive for a few for the other DC loads (hitch plug, cooling fan)–You must have security for the people connections too (fuses/breakers ranked to size of wiring).